Engagement Ring Metal Guide

The short answer

On a lab-grown engagement ring, 14K white and yellow gold look near-identical to 18K to anyone who is not a jeweler, cost materially less, and are slightly harder. Most buyers should choose 14K and spend the difference on the stone.

14K gold

  • 58.5 percent pure gold, the rest alloyed for hardness
  • More durable than 18K because there is less soft gold in the alloy
  • The standard for engagement rings for good reason
  • Yellow reads warmer, white reads cooler

18K gold

  • 75 percent pure gold
  • Richer yellow, slightly softer, more prone to scratching at the shank
  • Costs meaningfully more for no durability gain
  • Worth it mainly if you specifically want a deep yellow

Platinum

  • Not an alloy in the usual sense, a single metal
  • Hypoallergenic, which matters if you are reactive to nickel
  • Denser than gold, so the ring feels noticeably heavier for the same size
  • Never tars, but develops a soft patina over years that can be polished off
  • Highest price per gram of anything here

14K white gold and rhodium

White gold is an alloy that looks white, not platinum. Most is rhodium plated. Expect the plating to wear over several years, particularly on the inside of the band, and plan for a re-plating. Platinum will not need this.

Sterling silver

Fine for fashion jewellery, wrong for an engagement ring. It tarnishes, it is too soft for daily wear, and stones loosen faster. We do not use it for engagement settings.

Price and appearance

On a lab-grown ring the setting is a larger share of the price than it would be on a mined stone, which makes this the cheapest place to save without losing the stone. See the budget guide.

Practical choices

  • Everyday wear, want durability and value: 14K
  • Deep yellow traditional look, wear it carefully: 18K
  • Metal sensitivity, or you want it to last without replating: platinum
  • Heaviest budget, hardest work: 18K yellow

All our rings are available in multiple metals. Browse the engagement ring collection and the wedding bands.