Metals Guide

Metals guide

The metal is about 40% of the visual weight of a diamond ring and 100% of its durability. It is worth understanding before you choose.

Platinum

Dense, naturally white, and does not need plating. Platinum is slightly softer than 18k gold but far less prone to scratching-through, because when platinum scratches it flattens rather than losing metal to a hard surface. It develops a soft patina over years that many owners prefer to polish off. The most durable and most expensive white metal option.

18k white gold

75% gold, usually rhodium-plated for a bright white finish. Slightly harder than 14k and more traditional. The plating wears over time, particularly on the inside of the band, and needs re-plating every few years depending on wear. Cheaper than platinum of comparable weight.

14k gold

58.5% gold. The most durable gold alloy and the most common choice for everyday wear, because it resists scratching better than 18k. Less precious-metal content means a lower price and slightly different color. An excellent practical choice.

Yellow gold

The warmest option and the most flattering to stones with a lower color grade, because the gold's warmth masks faint yellow tones. It also historically scratches and wears more visibly than platinum. If you want the most classic look, this is it.

Rose gold

Gold alloyed with copper, giving a pink tone. The copper content also makes it the hardest of the golds, so it wears well. It suits vintage-inspired and warmer design languages particularly well.

Care

  • Remove rings for weightlifting, manual work, gardening, and sleep. This is the single most effective thing you can do for any ring.
  • Clean with warm water, mild dish soap, and a soft brush. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners on treated or included stones, and check with us first if you are unsure.
  • White gold needs re-plating as the rhodium wears. Platinum does not.
  • Have settings checked annually. Melee and pavé need re-tipping over time. Lifetime service covers this for our pieces.

Which should you choose

Platinum if you want maximum durability and no plating maintenance, and accept the cost. 14k gold if you want a lower price and easy everyday wear. 18k white or yellow gold if you want the traditional look. Our default recommendation for an engagement ring is platinum or 14k, and we will explain the trade-offs for whichever you are considering.

Frequently asked questions

Is platinum more expensive than gold?

Platinum is denser, so a ring of the same size weighs more. Platinum is priced per gram, so comparable rings usually cost more in platinum than in 18k gold. 14k gold is usually less.

Will my gold ring turn my finger green?

Not in normal wear. Skin discoloration is a reaction to nickel in lower-karat alloys and is more common in fashion jewelry. 14k and 18k are usually fine. If you have a known metal sensitivity, tell us before ordering so we can choose an alloy that avoids the problem.

What is rhodium plating?

A thin layer of rhodium applied to white gold to make it bright white. It wears over time, most visibly on the inside of the band, and needs periodic re-plating. Platinum does not need it.